Vans

Camper Van Conversion Body and Interior Repair for Placentia Owners

A converted Sprinter, Transit or ProMaster is a van with a house bolted into it, and both halves get hurt in a collision. We repair the shell, the roof penetrations, the fiberglass cap and the interior build in one shop in Yorba Linda, a short drive from Placentia, so nobody has to coordinate between a body shop and an upfitter.

What leaks first on a converted camper van roof?

Every hole someone cut in that roof is a future leak. Fan-Tastic and MaxxAir vents, solar panel feet, antenna bases and cable glands all sit in the flattest, most water loving part of the vehicle, and the sealant around them is a wear item, not a permanent part.

We remove the fixture rather than smearing more sealant over a failing joint. The old butyl comes off, the roof surface is cleaned back to sound paint or gel coat, and the fixture goes back down on fresh butyl tape with a Sikaflex or comparable perimeter bead. That is the only version of the repair that lasts more than a season.

Solar mounts deserve extra attention because they are through bolted into thin sheet or into a fiberglass cap that flexes. If the substrate has cracked around a foot, we reinforce from the back before remounting. A Zamp or Go Power array that has been shifting under highway wind will keep opening the same hole otherwise.

How do you repair a cracked pop top or fiberglass high top?

Fiberglass caps crack in the same places every time: the corner radii, the seam where the cap lands on the cut roof line, and around any hardware that concentrates load such as hinge points, lift struts or a roof rack mount that was never properly backed.

Cracks get ground out to a tapered bevel, backed where access allows, laminated with matching glass and resin, then faired and refinished. Gel coat blending is part of the job, and we color match into the surrounding surface rather than leaving a patch that reads as a repair from ten feet away.

On pop tops we also check the lift mechanism, the fabric or tent bellows attachment and the seal at the perimeter when the top is closed. A cap that closes slightly out of square after a collision will chew through the bellows and let water track down the inside of the sidewall within a few months.

What does it take to put the galley and the electrical back together?

Conversion interiors are attached to the van in ways no factory engineer ever reviewed. Cabinets are often bolted to furring strips, plywood walls or wall studs added by the builder, and a collision pulls those fasteners through the substrate long before the cabinet itself breaks.

We remove and label the galley, cabinets, bed platform and any plumbing that blocks access to the damaged shell, repair the body, then reattach to sound structure with proper backing plates. Where the original attachment was undersized we say so in writing and offer the corrected version rather than reinstalling a mount that already failed once.

Electrical gets inspected before anything is re-energized. Lithium batteries, Victron or Xantrex inverters, shore power inlets and charge controllers are checked for physical damage, chafed conductors and displaced busbars. Mechanical and electrical labor runs 260 dollars per hour and diagnostics is 285 for the first hour, applied as a credit toward the repair.

Water intrusion after a roof or window hit is its own project. Wet insulation behind bonded windows and in the wall cavity does not dry in place, so we open the affected bays, remove saturated material, address the vapor path and rebuild before the interior panels go back. Bonded windows are reset with fresh urethane and cured properly.

What is included

  • Roof fan, solar and antenna penetration resealing
  • Fiberglass pop top and high top crack lamination
  • Gel coat blending and color matched refinish
  • Cabinet, galley and bed platform removal and reattachment
  • Backing plate correction for undersized original mounts
  • Lithium, inverter and shore power damage inspection
  • Bonded window removal, cutout repair and urethane reset
  • Wet insulation removal and wall cavity rebuild

Questions we get asked

My conversion was built by a small shop that is no longer around. Can you still work on it?
Yes. Most conversions we see are one off builds with no documentation, so we photograph and label everything as it comes apart and rebuild to what is actually there. Where the original construction is the reason something failed, we tell you before reassembly and give you the option to have it corrected properly.
Do you handle the house electrical or only the van body?
Both. After a collision or water intrusion we inspect the battery bank, inverter, charge controller, shore inlet and the wiring runs for physical damage before anything is powered up. Electrical labor is 260 dollars per hour. If a diagnostic is required it is 285 for the first hour and that amount is applied as a credit toward the repair.
How do I know whether water got into the walls?
Staining at a seam is the late symptom, not the first one. We check moisture at the wall bays, look behind bonded window flanges and pull an access panel where the roof to sidewall joint runs. Insulation that has been wet does not recover in place, so if it is saturated the correct answer is to open it up and replace the material.

We Can Help! Contact Us Today.

Bring it to the shop and we will assess the damage, document it properly for your insurer, and tell you exactly what the repair involves. Serving Placentia and the surrounding area from our 35,000 square foot facility.

All work performed in-shop. We stand behind our work.